MARD, COCO and Manman Color Codes: How to Compare and Substitute
The comparison below comes from Peko’s color table. It is a selection reference, not an official brand chart. Batches, screens and lighting all cause color differences; check a physical color card before buying beads.
One of the most confusing parts of perler beads: the same color can have different codes in different brands, and the same code can be a completely different color in another brand. You cannot simply turn “MARD A01” into “COCO A01”.
First, understand the three numbering systems
MARD, COCO and Manman are common bead color systems, but their numbering rules, color ranges and naming conventions are not unified:
- MARD: usually letters plus numbers, with fairly detailed color coverage.
- COCO: also letters plus numbers, but grouped differently from MARD.
- Manman: uses prefixes such as
IC,DHandQ; it does not map directly to the other two.
What you actually compare is the color, not the code. Peko maps the colors in an image to a specific brand’s palette and then outputs that brand’s codes. Switching brands remaps the codes.
A small table makes the difference clear
Here are a few common colors (hex is an approximate screen color, not a physical standard):
| Color | Approx. screen color | MARD | COCO | Manman |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| White | #FFFFFF |
T01 | L14 | L6 |
| Black | #000000 |
H07 | B09 | F7 |
| Red | #FD543D |
A14 | C05 | B14 |
| Light skin | #FDD3CC |
E01 | K03 | E1 |
| Yellow | #F4D738 |
A05 | D03 | B4 |
| Light green | #C5ED9C |
B16 | F03 | C17 |
| Blue-green | #67B4BE |
C22 | H25 | Q11 |
The same white has completely different codes in all three systems. The same letter A also covers a different range in MARD and Manman. When you switch brands, remap the whole pattern; do not change only the prefix.
How to substitute a missing color
Missing colors are normal. Work through this order:
- Lightness first: is the missing color a darker or lighter shade? Look for a nearby shade in the same family.
- Then temperature: a yellow-leaning red and a blue-leaning red clash when placed together.
- Then area: keep large main areas accurate; small accents can be merged more boldly.
- Protect faces first: skin, eyes and mouth should not be changed casually; backgrounds and edges can be substituted.
- Buy a small amount first: colors that look close on screen can differ a lot in real life, especially skin tones and grays.
A useful rule: use the closest color for large areas, and the most harmonious color in the same family for small areas. Do not buy a whole bag of an unusable color for a tiny accent.
Choosing colors in Peko
- Decide which brand you actually bought, then select that color system in the editor.
- Beginners should limit the palette to 12–20 colors; this greatly reduces missing colors.
- After switching brands, check the preview and the color list again. Do not order from an old list.
- For a portrait, settle skin, eyes and hair before dealing with the background.
- Before exporting, check the usage count per color; colors used for only a few beads can often be merged.
Common misconceptions
| Misconception | Why it is wrong | Better approach |
|---|---|---|
| The same code means the same color | Numbering systems are not universal | Compare by color, not by code |
| Screen color equals real bead color | Screens, lighting and batches cause differences | Use a physical color card; buy a small amount first |
| More colors means a better likeness | More colors increase missing beads and mistakes | Limit the palette first, then add colors gradually |
| Any nearby color is fine for a missing one | Wrong lightness or temperature makes the result muddy | Choose by lightness, temperature and area |
Next step
Open the Peko editor, choose the color system you actually use, and make a small 20–30 bead-wide pattern to see how many colors you really need. You can also read How to turn a photo into a perler bead pattern for the full workflow.
If you are struggling with ironing settings, read Ironing perler beads: temperature and time.